A cult 80s movie, Norwegian black metal, punk, grunge and 90s angst ridden teens are some of the 'seemingly disparate themes' that have combined to inspire the Jimmy D winter 2011 collection.

The Big Idea heard from designer James Dobson as he prepared for his show at this year's NZ Fashion Week.

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A cult 80s movie, Norwegian black metal, punk, grunge and 90s angst ridden teens are some of the 'seemingly disparate themes' that have combined to inspire the Jimmy D winter 2011 collection.

The Big Idea heard from designer James Dobson as he prepared for his show at this year's NZ Fashion Week.

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Dobson created the label Jimmy D in 2004, winning the Mercedes Start-Up Award with his first  collection.

Jimmy D’s signature look is dark, with a wry sense of  humour, combining deconstructed, androgynous, over sized silhouettes  with body conscious elements.

Jimmy D is currently stocked in boutiques throughout New Zealand and Australia and has been featured in international publications such as  Yen, Oyster, NYLON (US), Vogue Nippon, Vogue Korea, and Sportswear International where it was selected as one of "The eight most directional collections today".

How would a good friend describe your aesthetic or style?

Oversized layers of drippy black garments, with a darkly intellectual sensibility… At least that’s how I hope they describe my aesthetic…

Do you like to look at the big picture or focus on the details?

I think fashion has to be a balance of both of these, you have to be able to visualize a collection as a whole, but it’s essential to focus on the finer details – one without the other is disasterous.

Which of your projects to date has given you the most satisfaction?

I’m pretty lucky that I get to start with a blank canvas each season, so every collection I complete is pretty darn satisfying. So, if you ask me this, this time next week, hopefully I’ll say my show at this year’s NZFW.

Where are you based and why?

Hmmmm… that’s a very good question… I have lived in Wellington and overseas and just sort of ended up here. Auckland is the easiest city to be based in to run a label, all the fabric wholesalers, magazines and stylists are based here. We also live on Queen Street so it definitely has a ‘big city’ feel which I really like.

What is the inspiration and back story to the collection you are showing at Fashion Week?

There’s a number of seemingly disparate theme’s that have combined for my winter collection – a cult 80’s movie Ms. 45 about a woman done wrong that becomes a gun toting vigilante, the richly visual language of Norwegian Black Metal album covers, the work of Auckland artist Andrew McLeod, mixed with elements of punk, grunge and 90’s angst ridden teens.

What’s gone into producing your show?

So much goes into producing a show, from the initial concepts and designs, through to their final realization (through a lengthy process of pattern draughting, toileing, fit-testing and final sample cutting), at the same time there is meetings with our incredible hair director Luanna Coscia from Fudge who is creating our hair look, MAC cosmetics for makeup, lots of discussion around the styling with Chris Lorimer, as well as meetings with our collaborators Meadowlark for jewellery and Andrew McLeod who has contributed some striking artwork that will grace our garments this season. Then there is all the logistical aspects of putting on a show, such as casting models, production meetings that cover lighting, music, set etc. So, in short, a lot goes into it, and we are heavily indebted to many many talented individuals that help us get our clothes on the catwalk.

What tips do you have for designers aspiring to show at fashion week?

Only do it when you are really ready – from both a design and business stand point. Aside from the fact that a show ‘aint cheap, you also need to be able to back up a show with the capacity to produce any additional orders you may get subsequently. All that said, the catwalk is one of the few times in fashion you really allow people ‘into your head’, with models, music and staging you can really make quite a profound statement – so don’t play it too safe. You want a memorable show at the end of the day.

How did you get started in fashion?

I came to fashion through photography, initially wanting to be a fashion photographer. While I was studying photography at Massey University in Wellington I started working at a clothing store called unity, that sold New Zealand designers such as Karen Walker and Kate Sylvester – after that I was pretty much convinced I wanted to be surrounded with clothes for the rest of my life.

What is one thing you wish someone had told you when you started out as a fashion designer?

I’m pretty happy with the path I have forged to date, I wouldn’t change what or how I have learnt anything.

What are your hopes for the future of the New Zealand fashion industry?

That New Zealand fashion continues to be synonymous with fearless and original design.

What challenges does the industry face?

Fashion is becoming faster, trends are identified and then exhausted at a rapid rate, designers need to innovate in order to stay relevant.

This year NZ Fashion Week is celebrating its tenth birthday.  How do you think the industry has evolved in the past decade – what role has Fashion Week played in this?

It’s hard to say! My label and I have both grown up alongside New Zealand fashion week – so it’s hard to be objective about that. It’s inevitable that any event will find it’s rhythm over the years, and it’s definitely a far slicker event than when it first started, that from my perspective rivals any international fashion week. I am proud of New Zealand fashion and I like to think that it’s just as vibrant and exciting as it was when New Zealand fashion week started 10 years ago.

You are given a piece of string, a stick and some fabric. What do you make?

I’m in the final stages of preparing for my show, and I’m pretty obsessed with Norwegian Black Metal at the moment, I reakon I could fashion quite a convincing Black Metal album inspired tee shirt with the fabric, the sticks forming a an abstract band title on the front all held together with string.

What’s your big idea for 2011?

More travel, more clothes, more fun.

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NZ Fashion Week 2010 is on from September 21-25 at the Viaduct Harbour Marine Village, Auckland.

This year's trade event will take place from Tuesday 21 September - Friday 24 September, with Fashion WEEKEND running the evening of Friday 24 September and all day Saturday 25 September.